Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate (AP) is an oil-soluble ester of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and palmitic acid, also known as 6-O-Palmitoylascorbic Acid (CAS #137-66-6). It is used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and masking agent. Because it is oil-soluble, it can penetrate the skin, but evidence suggests it may not effectively convert to free ascorbic acid once absorbed. It appears in many formulas, typically in small amounts.
Ascorbyl Palmitate possesses antioxidant properties and has shown in-vitro evidence of potentially boosting collagen production. However, it does not appear to increase skin levels of free ascorbic acid, and lacks data supporting the skin-brightening effects associated with pure vitamin C.
One in-vitro study found that following UVB radiation, Ascorbyl Palmitate promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity in keratinocytes, raising concerns about its use in sun-exposed conditions. Its stability is reported to be no better than that of pure ascorbic acid, meaning it is prone to degradation.
